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用于硅油乳化的新型氨基酸基表面活性剂及其在护发产品中的应用

更新日期:2018年11月09日

Novel amino acid-based surfactant for silicone emulsification and its application in hair care products: a promising alternative to quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants


Int. J. Cosmetic Sci.


Abstract:


Objective: Quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants (ACSs) and N-[3-alkyl(12,14)oxy-2-hydroxypropyl]-L-arginine hydrochloride (N-AOHPA) were used to emulsify silicone. The potential of the resulting emulsions in hair conditioning products was investigated.


Methods: The emulsions were prepared using a homogenizer and/or high-pressure homogenizer. ACSs and N-AOHPA were used as silicone emulsifiers. The stability of the emulsions were evaluated by measuring particle sizes, creaming fractions, polydispersity indexes and zeta potentials. Moreover, the N-AOHPA-stabilized emulsion was compared with the ACS-stabilized emulsion to evaluate the adsorption amount of silicone on healthy and bleached hair surfaces and the inhibitory effects on amino acid dissolution from bleached hair. The adsorption site of the N-AOHPA-stabilized emulsion was observed using a scanning electron microscope.


Results: For all surfactants, the silicone emulsions prepared using the high-pressure homogenizer were more stable than those prepared using the homogenizer. When N-AOHPA was used as the surfactant, the silicone emulsion was especially stable. Furthermore, the d50 value of the N-AOHPA-stabilized emulsion was smaller than that of the ACS-stabilized emulsion. The adsorption behavior of the silicone droplets in the different emulsions varied depending on the nature of the surfactant and the preparation method. The amount of ACS-stabilized silicone adsorbed on healthy hair was higher than that adsorbed on bleached hair, especially when the emulsion was prepared using the homogenizer. In contrast, the amount of N-AOHPA-stabilized silicone adsorbed on bleached hair was high, and no differences were observed between the N-AOHPA-stabilized emulsions prepared using the homogenizer and high-pressure homogenizer. The emulsified droplets, especially the N-AOHPA-stabilized droplets prepared using the high-pressure homogenizer, prevented amino acid dissolution from bleached hair. It was concluded that the silicone droplet adsorption site affected the dissolution process because the small N-AOHPA-stabilized droplets adsorbed at cuticle edges.


Conclusion: This study shows that N-AOHPA has good potential for use as an emulsifier in products used for improving the condition of damaged hair.


Keywords: emulsions; hair treatment; formulation/stability; amino acid-based surfactant



新型用于硅油乳化的氨基酸基表面活性剂及其在护发产品中的应用:一种很有前景的

季铵盐阳离子表面活性剂的替代品


Int. J. Cosmetic Sci.


摘要:


目标:本研究使用季铵盐阳离子表面活性剂(ACSs)和氨基酸基表面活性剂(N-AOHPA)乳化硅油,并探究所得的乳液对头发护理功效。


方法:乳液通过使用ACSs和N-AOHPA作为表面活性剂,在均质器和/或高压均化器中制备得到。通过测定乳液的粒径、乳化率、多分散指数和zeta电位评价了乳液的稳定性此外,将N-AOHPA稳定乳液和ACS稳定乳液进行比较,以评价健康头发和漂白头发表面的有机硅吸附量以及对漂白头发中氨基酸溶解的抑制效果。最后使用扫描电子显微镜观察了N-AOHPA-稳定乳液的吸附位点。


结果:对于所有表面活性剂,使用高压均化器制备的硅酮乳液比使用均化器制备的硅酮乳液都更稳定。当用N-AOHPA做表面活性剂,硅酮乳液尤其稳定。此外,N-AOHPA-稳定乳液的d50值比ACS-稳定乳液小。有机硅微滴在不同乳液中的吸附行为随表面活性剂的性质和制备方法的不同而不同。健康头发对ACS稳定的硅酮的吸附量高于在漂白头发,当使用均质机的制备乳液时尤其明显。相反,漂白头发对N-AOHPA稳定的硅酮吸附量很高,并且对从均质器和高压均质器制备的N-AOHPA稳定的乳液没有明显差异。乳化液滴,尤其是通过使用高压均质机制备的N-AOHPA稳定液滴,能阻止漂白头发中氨基酸的溶解。结果表明, N-AOHPA稳定的小滴吸附在角质层边缘,因而硅酮小滴的吸附位置会影响溶解过程。


结论:这项研究表明,N-AOHPA具有良好的应用潜力,能作为乳化剂用在改善受损发质的产品上。


关键字:乳液;头发修复;配方/稳定性;氨基酸基表面活性剂



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