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《IND CROP PROD》关于新型化妆品原料的论文导读

更新日期:2017年12月19日

蒲公英叶提取物和茎提取物的护肤效果:抗氧化性、酪氨酸酶抑制和分子对接模拟研究

摘要

本研究旨在评估蒲公英叶提取物(DLE)和蒲公英茎提取物(DSE)的护肤效果,包括酚酸鉴定、抗氧化评价、酪氨酸酶抑制和对接模拟研究。

结果表明,茎的50%乙醇-水提取物(DSE50%乙醇-水提取物)是以86.7 mg/g咖啡酸为主,而叶提取物(DLE)是以2.34 mg/g绿原酸为主。与叶的50%乙醇-水提取物(DLE50%乙醇-水提取物)相比,茎的50%乙醇-水提取物(DSE50%乙醇-水提取物)具有相似的还原能力,尽管其不如Vc和叶的50%乙醇-水提取物(DLE50%乙醇-水提取物),但在抗DPPH﹒自由基和O2﹒自由基清除方面表现出良好的性能。此外,茎的50%乙醇-水提取物(DSE50%乙醇-水提取物)对UVAUVB的吸收能力最强,但弱于绿原酸。此外,茎的50%乙醇-水提取物(DSE50%乙醇-水提取物)(IC50 =0.48 mg/ mL)的酪氨酸酶抑制率最强,但其比曲酸差(IC50 =0.063 mg/ mL)

分子对接模拟结果表明,茎的50%乙醇-水提取物(DSE50%乙醇-水提取物)中的咖啡酸主要通过与酪氨酸酶的Gly165Pro160的氢键相互作用进而发挥抑制作用。


(英文原文)Skin-care effects of dandelion leaf extract and stem extract: Antioxidant properties, tyrosinase inhibitory and molecular docking simulations

Abstract

This work aimed to assess the skin-care effects of dandelion leaf extract (DLE) and dandelion stem extract (DSE), including the phenolic acids identification, antioxidation evaluation, tyrosinase inhibitory and docking simulations study. Results showed that DSEEW (50% ethanol water extract of DSE) dominated 86.7 mg/g of caffeic acid while DLE was of 2.34 mg/g chologenic acid. DSEEW possessed a similar reducing power with DLEEW (50% ethanol-water extract of DLE), and presented a good performance on anti-DPPH capacity and O2 scavenging despite of being inferior to Vc and DLEEW. Moreover, DSEEW indicated the strongest behavior on UVA and UVB absorption but was weaker than chlorogenic acid. Additionally, DSEEW (IC50 =0.48 mg/mL) showed the strongest tyrosinase inhibitory, although it was worse than kojic acid (IC50=0.063 mg/mL). Molecular docking simulation results indicated caffeic acids in DSEEW presented their inhibitory mechanism mainly via hydrogen bonding interaction with Gly165 and Pro160 of tyrosinase.



关于龙舌兰藻副产物作为新型化妆品原料的体外和体内安全性评价研究,通过对纳米乳液的开发以及临床效果评价,提高皮肤的保湿效果

摘要

龙舌兰(剑麻)是硬纤维的重要全球来源,广泛用于制造电线,绳索和手工艺品。龙舌兰叶子的剥壳过程产生大量的副产物,将其直接丢弃,可能造成环境破坏。本研究显示了龙舌兰的副产物在不同应用中的应用潜力。

本研究的目的是从龙舌兰的副产物中获得富含多糖的部分(EF),评估其在体内和体外的安全性,开发一种新型的化妆品纳米乳,并评估其保湿临床功效。

首先,从龙舌兰的副产物中获得富含多糖的部分EF之后,测定EF的总糖、总酚和蛋白质含量。其次,EF的安全性使用体外和体内测定来确定。在不同的温度条件下,对纳米乳液进行了90天的稳定性评价。接着,使用电容测量和经表皮水分散失的生物物理学技术来评估临床的保湿功效。

研究发现,该部分表现出高浓度的糖(65.49±0.51%),同时存在酚类化合物(2.53±0.04%)以及蛋白质(0.04±0.01%)。在临床试验中,EF没有表现出潜在的细胞毒性或光毒性作用,也未表现出诱发皮肤刺激性反应的可能。含有40%油相,50%水相和10%表面活性剂,添加或不添加部分(载体)的纳米乳液可以稳定90天。其中含有0.5%级分的纳米乳液相对于溶媒增加了角质层的含水量10.13%,相对于基准值增加了19.28%,并且在单次施用5小时后保持了皮肤屏障功能。

从龙舌兰的工业副产物中获得的EF显示出作为保湿化妆品原料的良好的应用前景。这一点很重要,因为它显示了提高剑麻产品商业价值的可能性,从而也减少了对这种材料的处理所造成的环境影响。


(英文原文)Evaluation of in vitro and in vivo safety of the by-product of Agave sisalana as a new cosmetic raw material: Development and clinical evaluation of a nanoemulsion to improve skin moisturizing

Abstract

Agave sisalana (sisal) is the important global source of hard fiber, which is widely used in the production of wires, ropes, and handicrafts. The decortication process of the A. sisalana leaf produces large amounts of by-product that is discarded and can cause environmental damage. Studies have shown the potential of the by-product of A. sisalana in different applications. The aim of this study was to obtain a polysaccharide-enriched fraction (EF) from the by-product of A. sisalana, assess its safety in vitro and in vivo, to develop a cosmetic nanoemulsion and to evaluate its moisturizing clinical efficacy. The fraction exhibited high concentrations of sugar (65.49 ± 0.51%) and the presence of phenolic compounds (2.53 ± 0.04%) as well as protein (0.04 ± 0.01%).Nanoemulsion containing 40% oil phase, 50% aqueous phase and 10% surfactants, added fraction or not (vehicle), was stable for 90 days. The nanoemulsion containing 0.5% of the fraction increased the water content of stratum corneum by 10.13% vs. vehicle and by 19.28% vs. baseline values and maintained skin barrier function after 5 h of a single application. The EF obtained from the industrial by-product of A. sisalana demonstrated a promising profile as a moisturizing cosmetic raw material. The EF obtained from the industrial by-product of A. sisalana demonstrated a promising profile as a moisturizing cosmetic raw material. This is important because it shows the possibility to increase the commercial value to the industrial by product of sisal, and thus reduce the environmental impact caused by the disposal of this material.



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