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《IND CROP PROD》上关于植物类在化妆品应用研究导读

更新日期:2017年12月05日


橄榄副产品:化妆品行业的挑战性应用

摘要


橄榄树是一种传统的植物,主要是用于橄榄油的生产,特别是在地中海国家。橄榄油提取产生的副产品,可能成为一个重要的环境问题。近年来对这些残留物进行了植物化学鉴定和生物毒理学评价研究。这些副产品所含有的生物活性化合物有很高的抗氧化活性(尤其是橄榄苦苷),它是一种典型的脂肪酸型,也是一种有趣的矿物成分。的确,考虑到其组成和可持续性问题,重新利用这些处理残留物是可取的。这些农副产品具有不同用途的应用潜力,提供了经济上的优势。特别地,护肤品和化妆品领域可能会从这些剩余的材料中受益,因为这些生物活性化合物可以实现真正的美容功能和活性。本文综述了不同橄榄油副产品及其生物活性化合物的组成。同时,对这些副产品作为化妆品成分的可能应用进行了严格的审查。


(英文原文)

Olive by-products: Challenge application in cosmetic industry

Abstract

Olive tree is a traditional plant which fruits (Olea europaea L.) are used for olive oil production, especially in Mediterranean countries. Olive oil extraction produces by-products, which can become a major environmental issue. Recently, some studies have been carried out on these residues regarding phytochemical identification and biological and toxicological evaluation. The bioactive compounds contained by these by-products have a high antioxidant activity (especially oleuropein), a characteristic fatty acids profile and an interesting mineral composition. Indeed, taking into account its composition and sustainability issues, the reuse of these disposal residues is advisable. These agro-industrial by-products have the potential to be used with different purposes, providing economical advantage. In particular, the field of skin care products and cosmetics may benefit from these remaining materials, as those bioactive compounds can fulfill a real cosmetic function and activity. This review presents the composition of the different olive by-products and their bioactive compounds. The possible application of these wastes as cosmetic ingredients was critically reviewed.



橡胶(巴西橡胶树)种子油用于化妆品的抗衰老和细胞抗氧化活性


摘要


丰富的橡胶种子橡胶树(巴西橡胶树)的副产品用于树木种植,生物柴油生产,涂料和动物饲料。有报道指出,橡胶籽油的主要不饱和脂肪酸成分参与了生物活性,可能在化妆品中应用。然而,橡胶种子油对化妆品应用的生物活性研究是有限的。本研究的目的是提取橡胶籽油,分析脂肪酸组分,并通过磺酰罗丹明B的测定和细胞培养中的生物活性(包括黑色素生成测定和抗氧化活性)来评价细胞毒性。橡胶籽油的提取率为19.32±0.54%,棕榈酸(18.90±0.55%),硬脂酸(10.91±0.25%),油酸(35.91±1.97%),亚油酸(33.31±1.56%)。在B16 - F10黑色素瘤细胞和3T3 - L1细胞中,橡胶籽油的非细胞毒性浓度在0.0001 -0.1 mg/ mL时,其细胞存活性高于80%。在F16 - F10黑色素瘤细胞中,抑制50%细胞活力(IC50)的橡胶籽油浓度为0.29 mg/ mL。在0.1 mg/mL 的橡胶种子油的检测结果表明对一些成分(如黑色素生成的黑色素含量(46.24±2.64%)、酪氨酸酶的活性(53.85±5.04%)和酪氨酸酶相关蛋白-2的活性(66.01±1.84%))起到抑制作用。橡胶种子油的抗氧化活性表现在0.001 mg/mL 的细胞保护作用,细胞活力为99.72±6.92%。研究结果表明,将橡胶籽油作为一种功能性原料加入到个人护理和化妆品制剂中具有潜在的应用价值。



(英文原文

Antimelanogenesis and cellular antioxidant activities of rubber (Hevea brasiliensis) seed oil for cosmetics

Abstract

The abundant rubber seed, the by-product of rubber tree (Hevea brasiliensis), is used for tree plantation, biodiesel production, coating, and animal feed. The reported major unsaturated fatty acid components of rubber seed oil are involved in the biological activities and may potentially be employed in the cosmetics. Nevertheless, the biological activity study of rubber seed oil for cosmetic application is limited. The aims of study were to extract the rubber seed oil, analyze the fatty acid components, and evaluate for the cytotoxicity by sulforhodamine B assay and biological activities, including melanogenesis assay and antioxidant activity, in cell culture. The extraction yield of rubber seed oil was 19.32 ± 0.54%. The fatty acid components of rubber seed oil were palmitic (18.90 ± 0.55%), stearic (10.91 ± 0.25%), oleic (35.91 ± 1.97%), and linoleic (33.31 ± 1.56%) acids. The non-cytotoxic concentrations of rubber seed oil at 0.0001-0.1 mg/mL were shown the cell viability higher than 80% in B16-F10 melanoma cells and 3T3-L1 cells. The concentration of rubber seed oil that inhibited cell viability at 50% (IC50) was 0.29 mg/mL in B16-F10 melanoma cells. The melanogenesis assay of rubber seed oil at 0.1 mg/mL was shown the inhibitory effect on melanin content (46.24 ± 2.64%), tyrosinase activity (53.85 ± 5.04%) and tyrosinase-related protein-2 activity (66.01 ± 1.84%). The antioxidant activity of rubber seed oil was demonstrated the cellular protective effect at 0.001 mg/mL with cell viability of 99.72 ± 6.92%. The results of study have been supported the potential utilization of rubber seed oil as a functional raw material to be incorporated into the personal care and cosmetic preparations.



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