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不同醇类对角质层血管舒缓素5、磷脂酶A2以及对上皮角质细胞和皮肤的影响

更新日期:2017年05月12日


简介:一篇2016年发表于《International Journal of Cosmetic Science》(《国际化妆品科学杂志》)的关于不同醇类对角质层血管舒缓素5、磷脂酶A2以及对上皮角质细胞和皮肤影响的文献。





目的:研究在皮肤功能方面乙醇、异丙醇、正丙醇对角质细胞酶及角质细胞的影响。

方法:通过比较含有不同醇类的样品对血管舒缓素5(KLK5)、磷脂酶A2(PLA2)、角质细胞代谢、白介素-1α和肿瘤坏死因子的活性。同时做了一个14天的医学测试,选取了25名高加索女性并在其前臂每天涂上20-100次不等醇类样品,测试其经皮水分失水值、皮肤持水力、皮肤干燥程度及红血丝情况。

结果:观察到在含有醇类的样品中,KLK5和PLA2的活性降低。在这些醇类中,正丙醇的蛋白变性作用最强(P<0.001),而异丙醇对PLA2的变性作用比乙醇更明显(P<0.001)。同样,乙醇对角质细胞的代谢和分泌的影响最温和P<0.001),而无论是在正常还是分化后的角质细胞中,正丙醇的影响总是最严重的。这一体外实验的发现与临床结果相吻合:这些醇类对皮肤产生刺激(提高流失率),且皮肤不耐受的程度为正丙醇>异丙醇>乙醇。在高使用频率下,不同的醇对经皮失水值、皮肤持水力的影响相近,但是在使用频率较低时,正丙醇对经皮失水值和持水力就有着重要的影响(P<0.05)。同时,在使用频率低的情况下,正丙醇和异丙醇也更显著地让皮肤产生红血丝。

结论:明确证明了异丙醇和正丙醇在体外严重影响角质层和角质细胞,并在体内会伤害皮肤状况和皮肤功能,但乙醇不会。结果表明,皮肤对基于乙醇的消毒剂的耐受性较好,尤其是在高频使用的情况下,所以相比其他醇类是更合适的化妆品原料。



(原文)

Effect of different alcohols on stratum corneum kallikrein 5 and phospholipase A2 together with epidermal keratinocytes and skin irritation


Abstract

OBJECTIVES:The aim of this exploratory study was to investigate the effect of ethanol, isopropanol and n-propanol on stratum corneum (SC) enzymes and keratinocytes in vitro together with their effects on skin condition and function.

METHODS:Activities of kallikrein 5 (KLK5) and phospholipase A2 (PLA2) as well as keratinocyte metabolic activity, interleukin-1α(IL-1α) and tumor necrosis factor-a (TNF-α) were measured in vitro in the presence and absence of the different alcohols. We also measured transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin capacitance, visual dryness and visual redness on the volar forearms of 25 Caucasian women following application of the alcohols 20 and 100 times per day over a period of 14 days in a clinical study.

RESULTS:Reduced activities of KLK5 and PLA2 were observed in the presence of the alcohols. The greatest denaturing effect was always observed for n-propanol (P < 0.001), and in the case of PLA2, the effect of isopropanol was greater than ethanol (P < 0.001). Equally, ethanol had the mildest effects on keratinocyte metabolic activity and cytokine secretion (P < 0.001) and n-propanol always produced the most severe changes in normal and differentiated keratinocytes. These in vitro findings supported the clinical results where the major effects were on the induction of skin irritation (increased dropout rates) and ranked the intolerance of the different alcohols as follows: n- propanol > isopropanol > ethanol. At the high application frequencies, the effect of the different alcohols on transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin capacitance was similar, but at the low application frequencies, n-propanol had a significant effect on TEWL and capacitance values (P < 0.05). Equally, n-propanol and isopropanol produced significantly more skin redness at the low application frequencies.

CONCLUSIONS:Clearly, isopropanol and n-propanol caused significant SC and keratinocyte perturbation in vitro together with damage to skin condition and function in vivo whereas ethanol did not. As a result, we show that ethanol-based sanitizers are better tolerated by skin, particularly in high-use settings, than other alcohols and should be the active ingredient of choice. 

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