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《International Journal of Cosmetic Science》:关于水和甘油混合物在人体皮肤中渗透的动力学

更新日期:2017年05月10日


实验目的:为了令人更好的理解化妆品油水配方中皮肤的保湿机理,本文主要探讨了油水混合物在人体皮肤中的渗透特性。

实验方法:在相同的条件下,研究用3H2O and 14C-甘油标记的油水混合物对断层皮肤稳态渗透和分离的人体角质层的解吸动力学。这些数据与油水混合物的动力学模型的预设值以及已测得的人体角质层的水吸附等温线进行比较,评估渗透物在人体角质层中的扩散和分离系数,以及角质层厚度的影响。这些数据可能被用于评估皮肤的锁水能力以及与角质层膨胀相关的油类的吸收和缓慢释放能力。

实验结果:从甘油和水的混合溶液中浸出的角质层用6+天的时间完成解吸实验。含有3H2O and 14C标记的甘油在纯水中比在油水混合物中解吸更慢,原因是人体角质层在水中具有更好的膨胀效果。水和甘油在人体角质层内部扩散参数的关系是角质层水含量,通过类推评估甘油和水溶液的相互扩散系数。通过推断吸收和解吸实验表明14C标记的甘油的内部扩散率少于3H2O标记的水的渗透实验的10倍。

结论:这些研究表明,甘油进入了人体角质层并且在其中有很长的保留时间。大量的水和油的组合运输中甘油对皮肤中水份的散失起着重要作用。在这些数据支持下,甘油是一种可作为皮肤渗透和锁水的优秀保湿剂,但也不排除有可能对皮肤屏障的内稳态具有额外的生物学作用。




Dynamics of glycerin and water transport across human skin from binary mixtures


OBJECTIVE: Skin transport properties of glycerin and water from binary mixtures contacting human skin were determined in order to better understand the mechanism of skin moisturization by aqueous glycerin formulations.

METHODS: Steady-state permeation for 3H2O and 14C-glycerin across split-thickness human skin in vitro and desorption dynamics of the same permeants in isolated human stratum corneum (HSC) were experimentally determined under near equilibrium conditions. These data were compared to a priori values developed in the context of a thermodynamic model for binary mixtures of glycerin and water and a previously determined water sorption isotherm for HSC. This allowed the estimation of diffusion and partition coefficients for each permeant in the HSC, as well as HSC thickness, as a function of composition of the contacting solution. These data may be used to estimate water retention and associated HSC swelling related to the absorption and slow release of glycerin from the skin.

RESULTS: It took 6+ days for glycerin to completely desorb from HSC immersed in glycerin/water binary solutions. Desorption of both 3H2O and 14C-glycerin from HSC was slower in pure water than from binary mixtures, a result that is largely explained by the greater swelling of HSC in water. Parametric relationships were developed for water and glycerin intradiffusivities in HSC as functions of HSC water content, and a mutual diffusion coefficient was estimated by analogy with glycerin/water binary solutions. The intradiffusivity of 14C- glycerin in HSC as inferred from sorption/desorption experiments was shown to be approximately ten-fold less than that inferred from permeation experiments, whereas the corresponding values for 3H2O were comparable.

CONCLUSION: These studies confirm that glycerin enters HSC in substantial quantities and has a long residence time therein. The coupling between bulk water and glycerin transport projected from binary solution data suggests the net effect of glycerin is to slow water loss from the skin. The data support the concept of glycerin as a humectant with an excellent balance of skin penetration and retention characteristics; however, they do not rule out the possibility of an additional biological effect on skin barrier homeostasis.



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